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Real
Estate Home Inspections
You've finally found the home
you want, negotiated a contract and struck a deal. Now it's
time to have the property inspected. An inspection will allow
a qualified professional to take an objective look at the
current condition of the property and prepare a report. Why
have the property inspected? You are about to engage in a
significant financial transaction.
You want to make sure the merchandise is in good condition.
If you have made an offer on a
property, you should have included a clause in the purchase
agreement that allows you to void the offer if the inspection
turns up a major problem. This is called an "inspection
contingency" clause. You may find it necessary to submit
a new offer based on the information received from the
inspection.
Finding a Real Estate
Inspector
The inspector you are looking
for is a professional who knows old homes and new homes inside
and out. One who crawls around the property looking for
structural and equipment flaws, and who will give his customer
a written report that will take some of the gamble out of
buying the property. Hire an independent inspector
who has no vested interest in the transaction and who is a
member of a trade association, such as the American Society of
Home Inspectors. These members have agreed to abide by a
written code of ethics and prescribed standards of practice
designed to protect prospective buyers.
While a Real Estate agent like
myself might provide you with a list of qualified home
inspectors, you are free to interview anyone you wish -
Remember that the final decision regarding who to hire is
entirely yours. Never let another agent tell you that you
must use someone from their "approved" list!
What Do Real Estate
Inspectors Do?
An inspector can save a future
homeowner a lot of grief and expense by identifying potential
problems. Inspectors check the condition of the structural,
electrical, and mechanical elements of a house. While they
won't recommend whether or not you should buy the house, they
can tell you about defects they find and the estimated cost of
repairing or replacing the defect. Inspectors usually look for
significant defects only. Inspectors, unless contracted to do
otherwise, do not routinely check for termites, asbestos or
radon. They do not report on coldness of refrigerators,
accuracy of oven temperatures, carpet stains or loose door
knobs.
An inspection may not include
anything outside the house, such as pools, garages, sheds or
water flow from an outside well. Inspectors are not required
to check the adequacy of the heat supply to individual rooms,
examine carpet or drapes, or even make sure that the roofing
materials comply with local codes. They do not have to test
every single door and window or electrical outlet in the
house, only a representative sample.
A basic package may include
inspection of the following: central heating systems; central
cooling systems; interior plumbing systems and components; the
roof's structural soundness; walls, ceilings and floors;
foundations and basements; the operation of built-in
appliances. Make sure the service you hire has adequate
liability insurance. Especially important is Errors &
Omissions Insurance. This insurance protects the inspector,
and indirectly you, against any post-inspection legal
problems.
The Inspection
Report
Your
goal is to obtain a written report detailing the
condition of the structural and operational functions
of the house.
The report should
assess the quality of the following parts of the
house: grading, drainage, landscaping, fencing, paved
areas, garage, exterior walls, doors, windows,
porches, decks, roofing materials, chimneys, gutters,
skylights, basements, crawl spaces, attics,
construction, structural stability, water penetration,
ventilation, insulation, plumbing systems pipes,
drainage, faucets, water heater, water pressure,
laundry appliances, traps, electrical system,
fuses, circuit breakers, wires, outlets, switches,
heating and cooling systems, kitchen and bathroom
fixtures, appliances, plumbing and flooring.
The report may be presented as
a set of worksheets or checklists covering the structure
inspected, from roof to basement. Brief remarks may be added
as necessary. The inspector may write a report regarding the
overall condition of the property, along with suggested
repairs or improvements. The report should include
information regarding current problems and those that may be
pending. Whatever form the report takes, it should give you a
realistic idea of what the condition of the house is. Never
accept a verbal report. You want a written record of the
inspection.
Can
I have additional inspections?
Yes! You may want to hire an
additional specialist if you want a swimming pool
checked out. Also, having the sewer system inspected
using a camera is an additional inspection that many
potential homeowners ask for. The home inspection
report from the general inspector will often state
something like " recommend that an additional inspection
is performed by a specialist" often in reference
to roof issues, electrical issues, plumbing issues,
etc. You have the right to have additional inspections
during the the inspection period (typically 17 days)
so have your agent schedule any other inspections, as
needed. |
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The Contract
Shop around. Find out exactly
what the inspector will evaluate. Find out what the fee is for
the basic inspection and for additional services like radon
testing or water testing. Ask how long the inspection will
last. A good home inspection should take about three hours or
more. Be skeptical if the inspector does not want you to
accompany him during the inspection. You can learn a lot by
tagging along. Most likely he will go slower with you around.
Some of the larger home
inspection services may offer "inspection
warranties." These are usually good for one year. They
can add credibility to the service's report. Ask to see the
warranty before you pay for it. An inspection warranty can be
useful if you are selling a home. It could be a comforting
sales tool.
The Purchase Agreement
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Assuming
that you sign a purchase agreement before an
inspection, make certain that a clause is inserted
that states that the sale of the property is
contingent upon an inspection report indicating that
no repair or replacement above $500 is needed. You can
adjust this number as you see fit.
A typical
contingency clause may read as follows:
This sale is contingent
upon receipt of a structural, mechanical, and
electrical inspection of the house and a condition
report by (ABC Inspection Company). The cost of the
inspection will be assumed by the buyer and the
inspection will be performed within seven (7) days of
the signing of this agreement. If the condition report
reveals any structural, mechanical or electrical
defect(s) for which the cost of correcting any such
defect will exceed ($500), the seller will have the
following options. A) Effect the necessary correction
of the defect(s). B) Negotiate the cost of correcting
the defect(s) with the buyer. C) Declare the agreement
null and void. |
In the event that the seller
does not exercise any of these options, or cannot negotiate
the cost of repairing the defect(s) with the buyer, and if the
buyer does not choose to ignore the defect, the buyer will
have the right to declare the agreement null and void. Should
either party to this agreement make such a declaration, any
deposit made by the buyer shall be refunded in full. All
options must be exercised within seven (7) days of the
inspection date."
Some contracts state that the
seller has to make repairs up to a specified dollar amount. If
the seller does not comply, the buyer can go ahead anyway, or
back out of the deal. If neither want to make the repairs at
that price, either can nullify the agreement.
Keeping
the property inspection in perspective
First off, no home is
perfect!
All homes have flaws, defects,
and a degree of deferred maintenance. When you are buying a
re-sale home, you are generally buying it with all of its benefits along with all of
its flaws. A very thorough
inspection report is typically lengthy and it may note many
"issues" in the home, however, many of these
inspection notations tend to include cosmetic issues and items
that are minor flaws. A few examples might be, electrical
sockets that are upside-down, light bulbs that are not
functioning, a door that is not swinging properly, a broken
latch, etc. The report may also note items that are not up to
current building code. The home may have been built before
many of today's current building standards and because of
this, the seller is not obligated to bring the home fully up
to code except in the case of mandatory compliance items, if
this was requested in the purchase agreement.
If there are legitimate safety
issues noted...
These issues should be
addressed by the seller or by the buyer, shortly after closing
escrow. A few examples of typical safety issues (especially in
older homes) would include items like:
- Lack of GFCI protected
electrical sockets around water sources (bathrooms,
kitchen, etc)
- Improper water heater ventilation
or draining
- Lack of smoke detectors in
bedrooms
- Breach of the firewall in
the garage, due to holes in drywall or lack of a
self-closing garage door.
- Cracked or broken
stair-steps
Setting
realistic expectations
Many home buyers have never
seen a professional inspection report and the number of items
noted is sometimes overwhelming. There are often a few legitimate
safety issues in the report, although many other noted
items can be minor (e.g., a cracked kitchen tile or a
broken window latch). Over-zealous buyers often request that
dozens of items are repaired or attended to, even though many
of these items are minor or cosmetic -- Keep in mind:
The home inspection
report is NOT a fix-it check list for the seller!
The real purpose of the home
inspection report is to....
- Inform the prospective home
buyer of the physical condition of the subject home
- Point out any safety-related
issues
- Note any issues that may
require further investigation by additional professionals
(e.g., mold inspector, roofer, pool contractor, etc)
- Note any major issues that
might be "deal breakers".
After you (the buyer) receive
the report, you have the right to request certain repairs, or
more commonly, request a credit to closing costs. This
is to cover the cost of some of the items in the inspection
report after close of escrow. This is usually done using the Request
for Repairs form (California form RR). Keep in mind that
this process is negotiable. The home sellers have the right to
counter your request with a smaller concession, or, they may
refuse it altogether. Many buyers are often dismayed when the
sellers come back with a much smaller repair offer. This is
because they feel the seller should (or must) fix everything
in the home. Some buyers also feel that the home should be
brought "up to code" before it is sold. Keep in
mind:
Aside from mandatory
compliance items, a home seller is under no obligation to sell
the home to you in perfect condition or up to today's building
code standards!
Mandatory compliance items may
include items such as, smoke detectors, CO2 detectors, and
proper water heater strapping. There may be other state or
local compliance items that are also required. These items
should be considered non-negotiable. If there are legitimate
safety issues in the home, you (the buyer) should also expect
that the seller will repair these items, or credit you enough
to repair these items after close of escrow, even though the
seller is not obligated to do so.
Bringing items up to code? The
seller is under no legal obligation to bring an older home up
to today's building code. While you may wish to address some
of these issues (for safety reasons), you cannot demand that
the seller do this for you. If you are buying an older home
(1940s, 1950s, etc), the building was likely built using
coding standards of that era. The seller has the right to sell
the home in this condition, and aside from mandatory
compliance items, there is no (known) law that states that the
structure has to be brought up to today's coding
standards.
If you don't like the
building code standards of an older home, then don't buy it!
You are under no obligation to
continue with the purchase of the home if you feel that the
home has many defects or safety issues, as noted on the
inspection report. A home inspection is one of the "contingencies"
when buying a property. You may legitimately refuse to
continue with the purchase of the home, as long as you are
still within the contingency period (typically, this is 17
days).
How much
of a repair credit may I request?
I always advise buyers to act
reasonably. Go ahead and request a few things, but be prepared
to compromise. At an absolute maximum, you should not ask for
a credit amount that is in excess of your recurring and
non-recurring closing costs. All financial items within a
purchase transaction must be disclosed on the HUD-1
settlement form . A home seller is not allowed to
just pass money to you for repairs. A seller may only credit
your closing costs up to the maximum amount. If for example,
if they were to give you funds outside of what is disclosed on
the HUD-1, it is technically lender fraud. What
this means is that, while you may ask for $7,000.00 in
credits, if your closing costs total to $6,000.00, the seller
is under no obligation to pay you the additional
$1,000.00!
But can't the sellers
just send me a check for the difference? Don't they owe me the
money?
Their agent will advise them
not to do it and legally they don't have to. Again, any
"off of the HUD-1" financial dealing between buyer
and seller would be considered "lender fraud". With that, even
though you may have an agreement for a certain amount of
closing cost credits, escrow will only credit you for the
maximum allowed for your recurring and non-recurring costs --
you essentially "lose" the remainder of the
credit.
So, what is
a "typical" deal between buyer and seller?
In my experience, the buyer
should ask for certain safety-related items to be addressed.
This can either be through actual repairs or through a credit
to closing costs. As a courtesy, the seller will typically
agree to a credit of between $500 and $1500. There are
occasions where the seller is OK with more, but usually the
credit is modest. If there are major issues in the home (e.g.,
a non-functioning water heater or furnace) it is proper for
the buyer to demand a larger credit. If the seller refuses,
you may cancel the offer and look for a home in better
condition.
The Request for Repairs can
often become the "tipping point" between buyer and
seller. Emotions can get the better of both parties and often
the entire deal winds up in jeopardy, over nothing more than a
small number of repairs. Keep in mind, when you are asking for
a large amount of credits, you are essentially re-negotiating
the purchase price. If this is warranted (e.g., a
major defect in the home) then proceed, but otherwise, be
reasonable. Ask for a few items to be repaired while also
being prepared to compromise. If you are the seller, be courteous
and agree to a reasonable amount of buyer credits to address
some of the issues with your home. If you are really uncomfortable
with offering anything for repairs, then have your listing
agent state that in the MLS home listing. For example, the
home could be listed as "sold as-disclosed", or
"seller will offer $500 in repairs". This way,
potential buyers are notified in advance and future misunderstandings
are avoided.
Real
Estate Inspectors *
* Inclusion on this list does not necessarily imply a
recommendation or guarantee of service. You should always make your own independent decision
when hiring a home inspector.
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